Pharrell Williams Louis Vuitton Debut SS24 Roundup & Review
Pharrell Williams is qualified enough to be Louis Vuitton’s creative director. Here’s what you missed from Louis Vuitton’s show last night.
It was one of the most impactful spectacles ever, so much more than just a display of clothes, it was a union of joy and a celebration of culture.
Giovanni Giannoni/WWD/Getty Images
Opening with a short film, two men sat beside the river seine, talking about their dreams, passions and determination to succeed. We we’re then transported up the river to the largest show Paris has ever seen. Taking place on the Pont Neuf, the city’s oldest bridge, located directly opposite Louis Vuitton’s head HQ. The turnout was insane, balconies, surrounding streets and 232 metres across the bridge were crowded by fashion fanatics, lucky attendees and A-List celebrities like Beyonce, Jay Z, and Rihanna.
The Show started late and missed the golden hour light they’d hoped for, the bridge still glowed like a yellow brick road, with an added LV signature as the iconic damier ebene print cascaded down the runway. At the foot, a full orchestra. Models emerged in shades of green, black and brown army esque looks featuring camo. With a pixelated damier effect, ‘Damouflage’ - the looks appeared minecraft inspired. As the music changed so did the clothes, more checkered creations in a plethora of colours, blue, red, yellow & even denim iterations of the design. Silks and slippers, Pixels and Pearls, Aztec and Art. One look commissioned from artist Henry Taylor, saw portraits embroidered onto denim hats, jeans and jackets. Another saw a pixelated image of the Pont Neuf and parisian skyline behind it enlarged onto dresses, and jackets. A true token for the show and Pharrell’s new home. Sports shirts and varsity jackets felt like an homage to his work at Adidas. The large hats felt like a tribute to his iconic grammys mountain hat, a look that we hope beyonce had a different reaction to this time.
All images courtesy of Vogue Runway
Pharrell’s aesthetic was very much felt, though there were obvious notes and themes to the houses late creative, Virgil Abloh, when interviewed he said “we collaborated with virgil in spirit”. One bag was shaped like a boat, a beautiful reimagining of his iconic plane bag, yet made relevant to the bridge and river they walked over today. Speaking of bags… this collection has many, heaped and worn in beautiful clusters. The speedy is back - reimagined in many colours. Using a soft leather to ensure it DOESN’T hold it’s shape. The Alma is also back and bigger than ever. Vernis leather was used as an ode to Marc Jacobs, the man who first introduced pharrell to LV back in 2004 when they collaborated on sunglasses. We even spotted what looked like LV shopping bags, as actual handbags. An honourable mention must be made to all the mini bags attached to belt loops and even the beloved bumbag that’s made a return aswell!! However now, in a completely new style, a more diluted display of the brand’s logo. Whilst Virgil reinvented LV monogram in many colours and materials, it seems Pharrell is doing the same with the Damier print, Is he making this his legacy?
The last to walk, or should i say drive the runway was a golf cart, the 2nd one of the night, with “liberty”” on it’s bumper and a gold vernis trunk on the back, many of us waited in anticipation for it to open and someone or something to burst out- but that didn't happen. Instead all the models finished off walking the runway together, grouped like an army, dressed to the nines, and carrying the much anticipated LV coffee cups which I am definitely going to buy.
The Virginia choir voice of fire, from Pharrell’s home town, who had been shining throughout, finished by performing their newest song ‘joy’. An homage to his biggest ever hit happy? sounds like it…
Pharrell appeared at the end of the show, parading the bridge dressed in a full pixellated camo suit. He hugged his family and kids who were also wearing the matching pieces and whilst he kneeled on the cobbles taking the moment in whilst all of his artisans and designers came out to be congratulated. Pharrell bowed to them before taking his final look down the camera lens sending a message to all those watching in awe at home, singing along to the lyrics of his song saying “if you want it, you can have it”. A beautiful end to the story and a link back to the clip we saw at the beginning of the show. The crowd erupted into a well deserved standing ovation, an energy that could be felt through any screen, whilst the light and buzz of the bridge lit up the streets of paris. The after party was held on the very same bridge where Jay Z performed “‘brothers’ in Paris” and was later joined by Pharrell on stage.
Despite much deliberation and hesitation about his credibility as a designer, the show was phenomenal, it was a ceremony of a new beginning, a story respecting the past and opening a new chapter at LV.
The LV lover, a story of Love that was not too much nor too little, Pharrell delivered joy perfectly.
via @pharrellwilliams on Instagram
